A Walk on the Wild Side
As we approach the start of this year’s 153rd Open at Royal Portrush, I thought it a good time to reflect on my time at the 150th edition of arguably the greatest tournament in professional golf. By a very grand gesture from a family friend, I was included on the guest list of the great South African golfer, Gary Player, and so began my journey to the Home of Golf.
This ticket was the culmination of a lifelong dream to see Tiger Woods play in the flesh. All who know me know that I’m a super fan (so much so that I named my firstborn after him), and therefore, checking off this bucket list experience at St. Andrews for the 150th Open celebration was the ultimate prize. Whilst I had high hopes of Tiger making the cut, I chose to travel and walk the Friday to ensure I would get to see him play.
I sat in Euston Station on Thursday evening, where I had arranged a work meeting before taking the overnight train to Scotland. Literally minutes before the girl that I was meeting arrived, over the loudspeaker, a voice announced, “Overnight train to Leuchars Station in Scotland cancelled due to fire on the Northern Lines”. My heart sank. Enter Mia (whom I’ve never met before), who can immediately see the look of panic on my face. It was the last train out to St Andrews; the only available flight was the price of a small mortgage. A bus would take too long. The whole plan was unravelling fast. I explained my situation and apologised profusely to her for not being able to meet. What followed was the swift work of a saint. Scanning all modes of transport on her app, Mia found the last overnight service to Edinburgh, which departed in 20 minutes. Within seconds, we were in a taxi and off to Kings Cross in peak traffic. She ran with me through the station, helped me purchase my ticket, and got me to the platform in time for last call. Mia, you were a Godsend, and I’ll never forget your kindness!!
I was bound for Scotland, but I would have some time to kill upon arrival. The train rolled into the station shortly before midnight, and despite it being Summer, I walked out onto the wet and very bleak streets. The icy wind cut straight through my parka, and my teeth were literally chattering. I hadn’t packed for this weather. I tried a few hotels and hostels to see if there were any vacancies, but who was I kidding? It was the 150th Open. I was declined seats in a few hotel lobbies (apparently against policy), so I eventually hailed a taxi to take me to the nearest casino, where I knew I could secure a seat for a few hours before heading back to Edinburgh station for my connecting train to Leuchars at 5:30 am. We pulled up to the casino, and I spotted a Marriott across the road. I thought I’d give it one more shot to lounge in a lobby, and much to my appreciation, the receptionist was obliging, and I managed a few hours of sleep sitting up.
It felt like minutes, and I was back on my feet and then rolling along the tracks, St Andrews bound. Leuchars station is located on the outskirts of the town of St Andrews and requires a bus and/or taxi to reach the course. The surrounding area is lush and green, as you’d expect of a Scottish coastal town. However, as you enter the town itself, you start to get a real feel for the history, charm, and all-around appeal of this quaint and very special place. You’re instantly met with the sights and sounds of a welcoming, bustling, golf-mad community. Despite having just an hour or so sleep, I was feeling energised and fed off the atmosphere.
My first port of call was to check Tigers’ tee time and then work my morning around his start. He was off mid-morning and so had some time to watch a few warm-ups. I headed over to the practice area, and much to my delight, was ushered behind the ropes onto the range. My timing proved immaculate, as positioned at the end of the range was Tiger and his team, working through buckets. It was a pinch-me moment as I walked over and past my childhood hero, just meters from their setup, and settled into a full hour of some of the best ball-striking I’ve ever seen. The man is a weapon. The balance, rhythm and tempo of his swing are literal poetry in motion.
Whatever came after, I knew was a bonus, but what I had just witnessed and been a part of was enough. I took a seat and was entirely overcome by emotions. Head in hands, I quietly wept. All the memories of playing golf with my dad, the many long walks taken together, of pretending to be Tiger Woods, having putts to win the Masters, of hundreds of hours sitting together watching him on TV, exchanging notes and views, studying swings and sharing stories. Playing and watching golf was our time, and on countless occasions, we had spoken about watching Tiger at a live event. It was a spiritual and cathartic moment, and I felt like I had my old man by my side that day.
The rest of the time was an absolute blast. I had so much fun amongst the friendly and fanatical gallery. We walked with Tiger for the majority of his round, and to be a part of, maybe not his finest golfing hours, but a real celebration of his career, was something quite special. To see how much admiration and respect he’s earned throughout his career and to feel the appreciation of his presence there at St Andrews, potentially for the last time in a major championship, was really moving.
I finished off the day with a few beers with a South African buddy. As the curtains came down on my day trip to Scotland, I was bid farewell by the powerful notes of some rousing bagpipes, and the hum of the local pubs filling up for the evening. I headed back to the station for my train ride back to London with a full heart. It was a whirlwind 36 hours and an experience packed with memories that will last my lifetime. With all its quirks, heritage, tradition, endearing local people, and palpable energy, a trip to St Andrews is a must for any golfing enthusiast. Even if just for a walk. I love links golf; I love the creativity that it demands, to become one with the elements and negotiate a single shot, from so many options, that fits the moment just right. Nothing forced. I’m trying to take these notions into apparel design, and I’m excited about what’s to come.
